remove all three parts of the engine mount on timing belt side of motor.ġ4. put hydraulic or suitable scissors jack under engine (you will need to move it up and down to access various bits at various time during this whole process -so leave the handle in)ġ3. remove all the plastic bits of timing belt cover you can -careful not to lose the rubber seals on the edges.ġ2. go to wheelwell, put spanner on the idler wheel for serpentine belt, pretend you are tightening it (CW), this will make it move to a position which allows you to remove the (now loose) belt. remove screws for coolant bottle, yank up and put to side.ġ0. remove screws holding intercooler bracket in place by bonnet release and swivel it upwards.ĩ. open bonnet, remove intercooler plastic air duct on your left (looking towards rear of car), loosen and move aside the one on your right.ħ. auto: park, manual: neutral (you dont want to spin the crank with the belt off by accidentally moving a drive wheel)Ĥ.remove RF wheel and the 4 screws holding that plastic shield (the one which prevents you from seeing the motor through the wheelwell).Ħ. chock wheels, jack up right front wheelĢ. I didn't initially realise this and thought my newly installed waterpump was leaking after I refilled the coolant to test integrity before reinstalling timing belt:wallbash.ġ. or hold on top of waterpump -I forget which! Note: don't panic when some coolant dribbles out under the car the mount bolts to the block appear to go right into the coolant channel of the engine. Look up the specs at the autozone site (the sequence starts in the inside, middle then goes outward)Here is a quick list of how to do the timing belt on 2.2 crdi motor -in case it helps save someone some time so they dont have to find things out the hard way. I'm going to try to attach the TSB 12-em-004 (strong and thick enough so the oil doesnt wash it off for a long time) If I had to do it over again, I would wait 24 hours to make sure the RTV in good and dry and strong. The tsb says to wait 30 min before starting, but I waited 8 hours. I put a little extra rtv on, and I put some on the front side where the timing cover meets the head as well, because I'm guessing the timing cover eventually will leak from there as well. I followed the spec on the autozone site which was 87 inch/lbs to ?100 inch/lbs ( I forget, but my final pass was at 95 inch/lbs) thoroughly clean all surfaces, using hyundai grey RTV, they call for a 2.5mm bead where the timing cover meets the cyl head, install the valve cover within 5 minutes and I torqued all the valve cover bolts to spec in order ( I found the sequence on the autozone website) I think its a design flaw because the timing chain flings oil against the RTV til it disintegrates.Īnyway, the second time I closely followed the TSB. I found that this was a recurring problem with these 3.3l v6's. I replaced the valve cover gasket for a friend but the front still leaked after. I just wanted to post my experience with an 2006 sonata v6 3.3 valve cover leak. How about special tools required for job? I'm just trying to gather info at this stage before I dive in, so thanks in advance. Is it recommended to use any sealant on reassembly? At 60k, anything else recommended to replace at the same time? I've watched a few videos on the valve cover gasket replacement and it looks straightforward enough. What is the correct number and is this the best valve cover gasket to use, or is there a recommended aftermarket alternative? I understand there is an updated factory Hyundai part for gaskets but couldn't confirm the part number. Searching the forum, it does look like valve cover gasket leaks are a fairly common problem so planning on replacing for them before the leak gets worse and causes other problems - alternator, etc. It wasn't doing this a few months ago when I replaced the TPS and before I condemned them too much for lack of responsible maintenance (ie, lack of oil/filter changes, etc) I wanted to further research. Changing a headlight bulb on a family member's 2007 Sonata 3.3L V6 with 60k, I noticed an oil leak just above the alternator.
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